The Final Resting Place

It was late afternoon, and I found myself wandering through a leafy green park, with landscaped gardens intersected by wide avenues, and with refreshing fountains to cool down the summer air. In-between all this stood a dusty nondescript tomb with no adornments or colorless. And after having spent the entire day gazing at monumental mosques and madrasas that had been beautifully restored to their former glories, this tiny tomb felt bare. And only the intricate patterns on the walls belied what was inside.

For what I was staring at was the 9th century Samanid Mausoleum, one of the most highly esteemed work of Central Asian Islamic architecture, having constructed even before Genghis Khan had ravaged this place. Since Sunni Islam prohibited construction of mausoleums, the fact that this one was constructed stresses the prominence of Ismail Samani, the ruler of the Samanid dynasty in that era.

As I entered inside, the warm afternoon sunlight streaming through the brickwork window formed a beautiful checkered pattern on the floor, and that lent a yellow ambience that highlighted the intricate geometric patterns that festooned the walls, archways, and the domed ceiling. In one corner stood the rather unremarkable tomb dedicated to the great ruler Ismail Samani.

I tried to capture the aura of magnificence, but the camera can only go so far. This was shot at F11 at ISO-800 at 1/8s

Bukhara
Uzbekistan

Finding Zen

I was seeking a place of silence, a moment of zen. But I was certainly at the wrong place and the wrong time for it.

I had landed in Japan the night earlier, right in the peak of its Golden week, when so many Japanese travel locally that even Shinkansens speed along with standing room only. I had made it to Kanazawa, on the western side of Honshu, and just like the capital city of Tokyo, Kanazawa was crowded as well. And to be able to find that solace in the thronging city of half a million would be a challenge by itself.

I was naturally drawn to the beautiful Kenroku-en gardens, hoping that a spot of greenery would provide respite in the concrete jungle. And after wandering around its narrow pathways with lush vegetation, mossy rocks and beautiful spring blossoms, I chanced upon a tiny pond, an archetype of a classical Japanese garden, replete with manicured vegetation, elegant cypress trees, a rustic stone lantern, and the gentle gurgle of a quaint waterfall. And I knew that at that moment, I had found my zen, and I just sat there, soaking in this lush scene hoping that it would never end.

But it eventually did, and before leaving, I captured this scene at F9, ISO 800, 1/125s

Kanazawa
Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan

Kirkjufellafoss

By the time I clambered over the mossy wet rocks beside the waterfall, it was already bathed in the beautiful golden light of sunrise. In the distance, the distinguishable shape of Kirkjufell towered above the smooth glaciated landscape, while in front of me, the water in the creek continued on its journey, starting from the green grassy slopes above the falls, and winding through a moss-lined sand-bar before ending up in the small inlet by the peak. I was transfixed by the beauty and silence of the scene, interrupted only by the frequent clicks as a dozen cameras were trying to capture the indelible nature of this scene.

While there is no doubt that Iceland is remarkably beautiful, the Snaefellness peninsula has more than its fair share of photogenic attractions; so much so that this region draws far more tourists from Reykjavik that many other parts of Iceland. And in my two days there, when I shot this particular scene, it was easy to see why.

And after having missed the sunset (which was socked in by the clouds), I had a strong urge to shoot the sunrise from near Grundarfjordur, which I had specifically chosen for its proximity to Kirkufell, aka the Church mountain due to the sharp similarity to a Christian place of worship. This complex scene required mergin 3 exposures shot at F11 and ISO 400

Kirkjufell
Iceland

The Desert Life

It was but a mere few shoots of rabbitbrush poking through the dry sands of Monument Valley. And while it was still a rocky desert early in September, that dawn, where I came across this brush thriving in the parched landscape, was still freezing cold.

I had paid a visit to Monument Valley a few years back, hoping to capture some of the magic of the wild West. But instead, what I came across were magnificent landscapes sculpted by the wind and the sand, with towering buttes constructed of red sandstone rising hundreds of feet from the rolling terrain below.

During this trip, a sunrise tour deep into the heart of this Navajo monument brought me face to face with some of its famous rocky denizens waiting to catch the morning light. After capturing the first rays of sunlight peeking through the sandstone buttes, I shifted over to the untouched sand-dunes, wherein I spotted these groups of rabbitbrush not just surviving, but thriving in this harsh landscape. The edge-lit sand-dunes provided the perfect foreground for this memorable scene, which I captured at ISO 1600, at F11 at 1/250s exposure.

Monument Valley Tribal Monument
AZ USA

Heading: North

It was a bright moonlit night high up in the mountains of the Olympic National Park. The silence of the still night was only broken by the sounds of hooves treading the ground as stealthy deer grazed in the grassy meadow all around me. But under the full moon, even the deer could not stay hidden for long. And I was keeping a close watch on them, for the last thing I wanted was one of them wandering into the tripod and knocking the camera that was shooting this image.

The bright moonlight had made it challenging to find a suitable composition for shooting the night sky. The horizon was bright, not from moonlight, but from the setting sun, while high above, all but the brightest stars laid hidden from both me and my camera. Wandering around, I finally spotted a grove of trees pointing up towards the Pole star; it was as though nature herself had stretched out her arms to point me to the north. And the near full moon had ensured that these still denizens of the forest would not stay invisible.

I shot a total of 17 exposures, each5 min long at F8, ISO 800 to capture this moonlit star-trails.

Olympic National Park
WA USA

Awaiting Sunrise

Two years ago, a beautiful sunrise found me atop a forlorn mountain. Besides me, a weathered wooden statue of Jesus on a cross stood steadfast, having braved the stormy elements that would have battered this windswept ridge through multiple seasons and multiple generations. And right now, it awaited the warming rays of golden sunlight this beautiful morning.

The sun was beginning to rise from behind the peaks yonder, drenching the dark mountainscape with light. And with that light, the landscape slowly morphed through multiple shades, from deep crimson to red to orange and then a golden yellow at present. As the light intensity increased, so did my perception of the tumultuous landscape all around: jagged ridges, towering cliffs, and deep valleys still in shadow, while the patchy clouds still changing through shades of orange provided a definition to the sky above.

Such is the beauty of witnessing a spectacular sunrise on the Dolomites. It can be a transformative experience, and I, for one, was glad I could capture this scene. This was a HDR shot at ISO 800 at F11

Monte Lagazuoi
Cortina d'Ampezzo Italy

Of Barren Landscapes...

Exactly a year ago to the date, I was captivated by the breathtaking moonscape that was speeding by the window as my car hurtled along desolate landscape in the northern regions of Iceland. The smooth blue tarmac of the Ring road cut through a range of old glaciated peaks that were but mere bumps on a map, but in reality seemed a lot higher. The sweeping curves of this highway that stretched for miles ahead, formed the singular imprint of humancivilization in this forlorn and bleak surroundings, where even vegetation struggled to grow on the loose volcanic soil. I struggled to capture the essence of its beauty, and this image, shot at F9, ISO 800 at 1/200s with a telephoto lens, only barely manages.

I will never forget the sheer sense of isolation I perceived in the landscape there (barring the dozens of other tourists passing by every minute), with my mind constantly wondering about how so much diversity existing in this one single island. Iceland brought about new surprises with every turn of the road or the trail, and each moment renewed the sense of excitement I was experiencing. Whether it was being awestruck by the Northern Lights, mesmerized by the shifting fog in the landscape, hypnotized by the sheer size of Dettifoss (waterfall), or even lost in this desolate landscape, Iceland was perhaps one of the most adventurous outdoor destinations I had been in.

Here is my 1-year tribute to this amazing island.

Myvatn
Iceland

Parting clouds

While crossing Tioga pass in Yosemite National Park late one summer evening, I noticed the parting clouds after an afternoon thunderstorm meandering over the pass. I stopped the car and made a beeline for a group of vernal ponds right on the saddle, hoping for something magical to happen. And it did.

As the sun started slowly sinking behind the granite ranges around, the winds died down, and the nearest pond took on an eerie stillness. The dynamic shapes and patterns on the clouds were perfectly reflected in nature's mirror, while, in the distance, the lingering thunderstorm cell started to catch the warm rays of the setting sun and turned to a shade of burning yellow. I captured this scene with 3 exposures at F/11 and ISO 400, merged with HDRfx.

I had recently remarked to a friend that Yosemite National Park was perhaps one of my most favorite photography destinations. And looking back at the beauty of the high alpine landscape of Yosemite through photos I had captured in the park, I truly stand by that claim.

Yosemite National Park
CA USA

Endless Mountains of the North Cascades

It is not particularly easy to get a bird's eye vista of the North Cascades mountains. Unlike the Sierra Nevadas or the Rockies, where several high-altitude roads provide easy access to trailheads, one must really work to climb high up and get those airy vistas. Or head to the trails of Mt Rainier National Park that snake upwards from the Sunrise visitor center.

While hiking along the Skyline trail on a late summer afternoon, I turned back to take a glimpse of the Nisqually valley with the river cutting through the rocky tree-covered slopes of the lower Cascades. Through the summer smog, one could glimpse the silhouette of a series of endless mountains making up the horizon view, each one hiding new vistas and new opportunities to explore. I tried to capture the grand beauty of the scene, but a camera can only do so much. This was shot at ISO 1600, at F/11 for 1/1500 (the only reason for such a high ISO was that I forgot to change the settings)

Mt Rainier National Park
WA USA

Totality

It was the morning of Aug 21, the day of the total eclipse. The bright sunny day was slowly transforming into a twilight zone. The light started fading slowly at first, and quickened as it approached totality. The mercury was dropping steadily, and I regretted my decision on not carrying a hoodie. The crescent of the sun continued thinning, and suddenly, Mt Jefferson, a volcanic peak 100 miles away, went dark. And then, darkness hit me with a celestial hammer.

The bright disk of sunlight was replaced by the stream of coronal discharge emanating in all directions. Even solar flares on the surface became visible. And while that in itself was spectacular, it was seeing the surreal landscape around that threw me off. The sky was pitch black above me (dark enough to spot planets), while on either side of the band of totality, it looked like twilight after a sunset. The crowds all around erupted in cheers, while I was still juggling the task of soaking in the scene and trying to capture the event with two cameras. Nevertheless, it was an unforgettable event. And then, just as darkness began, it ended.

I had seen eclipses before, a partial eclipse back in India, and an annular eclipse in California. And I had known today's total eclipse for a long time. And I had always wondered what the big deal of a total eclipse was. But after today's event, I was completely blown away by how unique totality is. And I now look forward to total eclipses that the future will bring.

Madras
OR USA